Archive for posts on Travel

Paris marathon: a narrative Sunday, April 18th, 2010

Waiting in the melee of people excited for the Paris marathon to begin, it strikes me what a curious thing both we and the thousands more who are out to support us are doing. Today is a day to celebrate the undertaking of a massive challenge for no reason beyond proving that such a thing can be done. It’s delightfully representative of humanity that such an event is supported and celebrated and taken on with such enthusiasm.

15 minutes pass between the race beginning and my reaching the start line. For the duration of this period, the Black Eyed Peas, on loop, inform me that tonight’s going to be a good night. Tonight, I think, is not on my mind right now.

I pass the start line and immediately find myself worrying that I’m either rushing or lollygagging. I’m used to running alone, and my pace naturally sets itself. Surrounded by 40,000 others, all going at different speeds, everything becomes relative and I find I have no idea whether I’m going faster or slower than normal. So I speed up.

Two miles in, barely begun, I overhear a Liverpudlian runner ask his friend, “How do you feel? ‘cos I don’t feel that good.” I feel amazing. I am running a marathon.

A man clutching a newspaper stands alone on an island in the middle of the road. As 40,000 eager athletes stream past him, I wonder if he will be stranded there for the next four hours.

As we reach the first series of tables where bottles of water are thrust by eager volunteers into the already desperate hands of passing runners, the sound of feet in motion is overcome by the clicketing of bottle tops tumbling across the tarmac. It sounds as if the runners have all spontaneously donned tap shoes. People swig from the miniscule bottles and throw them into the road - a period I come to refer to as “bottle gauntlet”. A spinwheeling bottle empties itself onto me as it careens overhead. “Thanks,” I say, to nobody in particular, uncertain whether I’m being sarcastic or not.

Five miles in, I spot ahead of me another runner in an Oxfam “Superhero” vest like my own. He is the only other obvious Oxfam supporter I will see during the marathon. I had been told earlier in the week that a colleague named Rob Flatt was also running, and assume this is he. I consider going to say hello, but the desire to finish as quickly as possible overtakes me, and I him. As I think about this, the line “I want to be the very best” infiltrates my head, and for the next few miles I am harassed by the few words that I know of the Pokémon theme tune.

Spurred on by the surrounding supportive calls of “allez!”, I make a mental note that, in time for the next marathon, I should ask those people who know me as Al to start referring to me as Ally. Of course, I quickly realise, the next marathon is in Berlin, so I will have to change my name to “Gehen”.

I dread reaching the next refreshments table and the next bottle gauntlet, as thirsty and hot runners empty the proffered water onto their tongues and faces and discard the half-empty bottles into the road. The thoughtful refreshed aim the bottles in an arc that lands off the side of the road. The less sensible opt to hurl them like greased bowling balls, and they skid across the tarmac in front of petrified runners who have to dance over the hurtling ammunition until they pass the danger zone.

As I go on, I spot runners whose t-shirts declare them members of “Team Bultex” and “Team GDF Suez”. I wonder if they are unlucky employees of the event’s sponsors, cruelly roped into being representatives on the run.

Up ahead, I see a woman standing on a podium in the middle of the road, screaming in French at the runners. I wonder if it is some sort of military initiative to encourage us. As I get closer I see that, at the foot of her podium, several photographers are crouched, snapping passing athletes, I suppose for the benefit of those who want to visibly document their state before, during and after the race. The woman’s wailing, I assume, is to warn runners not to tumble over these devious human boulders hunched in the road. I wonder if there are any photographs evidencing that the warnings failed.

We reach another refreshments table, fourteen miles in and several miles after I have realised how much I crave sustenance that isn’t water. I grab half an orange as I pass, and squeeze it into my mouth. It is unquestionably the most delicious thing I have ever tasted. Exuberantly thankful toward this heavenly fruit, I vow to eat an orange every day for the rest of my life. (The next day, I fail.)

Only a mile later, the juice of the delicious orange has turned painfully acidic in my stomach. My armpits, chafed by my Superhero vest, ache. (I later find out they are bleeding.) Suddenly I see before me a chimera: the other Superhero, Rob Flatt, is several yards ahead of me! How can this be? Did I not overtake him five miles in? Is he really a Superhero? I don’t know Rob Flatt; I know nothing about him - except that he is now my nemesis. He is no Superhero at all. I will defeat him at all costs.

I lose sight of Rob Flatt quickly as we enter a dark tunnel. We have already been under several bridges, and I expect to exit this underpass as swiftly as those previous. But we remain seemingly endlessly in the half-light of the yellow lamps that barely show us the way. I observe that the runner in front of me is wearing long, silvery grey socks - except that they are not his socks, they are his legs. Then I see that all of the runners have turned grey. I’m unable to tell whether this is the typical effect of the darkness, or my hallucinating mind. I begin to feel horribly claustrophobic, a sensation I have never felt before. Where is the end of this tunnel? I am too far in to turn back. I am torn between the sickening need to escape this underground prison and the overwhelming belief that by continuing to run I am only perpetuating my own miserable incarceration - after all, I ran in to this tunnel; what is to say that more running will get me out of it? I slow to a walk, which brings about the sensation of being drunk. Water is my alcohol, and every swig I take is making me more unsteady, more sick.

I pass a dimly visible sign - 17th mile - and pull myself together. A sign. A sign. I vow to run until the 20th mile, without stopping.

Before I reach the 18th mile, I fail.

But soon I begin to run again. Another technique - one that has always worked in training - serves me better: I promise to allow myself the treat of slowing down when, and only when, I reach the end of the tunnel. And soon I do see light. As hopeful rays of sunshine reach towards me, my mouth is suddenly refilled with the luxurious taste of that first orange, and then I am surfacing, out of the tunnel, an angelic wind singing against me, cold but perfect. I climb the slope out of the underpass and reach the top, ready to claim my prize of a rest. But I have just escaped Hell and climbed a hill after. Surely I am nothing short of exceptional? I speed up.

At the next refreshments table, an elderly man by the side of the road cheerfully pokes his walking stick across the tarmac in a well-meant attempt to remove some of the bottle tops from the road. I assume this means I’ve reached level two of the bottle gauntlet. For a moment I think the gentleman is an ill-advised blind man trying to find his way across to the other side. I wonder if the man with the newspaper is still on his island. I suppose he has a crossword to keep him occupied.

Soon I slow down again. I am stopping far more often than I would in training. I know I could run, but walking is easier. Where is my determination?

An Asian man passes me and calls back, “Come on, Superhero! Run!”

I grin at him, and take his advice.

Long before we reach the next refreshments table, my restored hunger has become insane-making. When the opportunity finally arises, I swipe at everything available, filling my mouth with raisins, oranges, whole gargantuan sugar cubes. I want to devour everything in my sight. Half a mile later, my muscles are delighted by the sugar kick as my feet pummel the ground beneath them, restless, powerful, unstoppable. Half a day later, my stomach wonders what the hell I was thinking.

The effect of the sugar quickly wears off, and I find myself slowing down again. The drunkenness worsens with every step. I need water, refreshment, but every drop of it exaggerates the sickening, narcotic sensation. I need water. Why am I drinking vodka?

The cold sweat of two men who brush past me is strangely refreshing. The warm sweat of another has the opposite effect. Another perspiring runner passes nearby, and the stench turns my stomach.

Shortly before we reach the Powerade table, a man with a sprinkler hose rains heavenly refreshment onto us. The eager Powerade volunteers misguidedly open bottles and poor unsatisfying amounts of electric blue fluid into plastic cups, most of which end up empty before they even reach the frantic runners’ mouths. I take a whole bottle, but find that the prospect of drinking it makes me feel nauseous, and I contribute to the most colourful of the bottle gauntlets, chucking an unopened Powerade into the road.

Miles 15 to 20 are by far the worst. Some runners from Brighton who I chatted to on the Metro on the way to the start line had warned me of this. I realise that the only thing that has got me through the marathon so far has been plotting this peculiar narrative as I go along - mentally recording the man with the paper, the screaming Frenchwoman, the abominable Rob Flatt - constructing delicious couplets - spinwheeling bottles and angelic singing winds. It is strange that reliving the task I am undertaking as I undertake it is what ultimately allows me to finish it.

I approach from behind a man who displays a request on the back of his vest: “Cheer me: go on Dave”. I remember the Asian man who called me a Superhero, and told me to run. I remember the thousands calling “allez!”. I pass close by Dave, and say nothing. I still don’t know why.

Walking again, I see in the distance a sign: 25th mile. A sign. A sign. I vow to run the last two miles, with all my heart, without stopping.

I succeed.

Most of the final two miles of the marathon are in what appears to be Parisian countryside - just me, the trees, and a few thousand other stubborn athletes. Then we turn a corner to be greeted by thousands more - not running or walking but cheering. The Sun is no longer peeking out from behind the branches of tall trunks, but upon us, warm and welcome. I spot the first non-conventionally dressed runner that I have seen during the race: a colourful clown dances along the barriers, wheezing into a screaming whistle and stirring up the excitable crowd. We turn a corner, and we are suddenly on the Champs Élysées. A banner, blissfully within reach, declares, “ARRIVÉE”. I raise my arms for the photographers as I cross the finish, but I feel curiously unable to smile. Looking at the photo later I can see that I was indeed smiling. I suspect my body was simply incapable of expressing the sheer relief that it was feeling at that moment. I can’t see Rob Flatt anywhere. I suspect he is still in that tunnel.

After the marathon, I queue for half an hour to be given the best massage I have ever received, by a cute French boy who, one by one, makes all five of the toes on my left foot crack with a gratifying CERUCK.

“How was it?” he asks.

“Never again,” I say. “Until the next time.”

(I finished in four hours, 16 minutes and 13 seconds.)
(Rob Flatt finished in three hours, 28 minutes and 59 seconds. I have yet to introduce myself to him.)

Posted in Paris Marathon 2010, Personal, Travel1 comment

Copenhagen, as told by my Facebook and Twitter updates Friday, January 1st, 2010

Kinders Al Kinley Colleague just said to me, “enjoy the weekend (the last one before Christmas)”.
27 November 2009 at 15:18

Kinders Al Kinley Drinking a beer and packing to go to something epic. ftw #cop15
11:21 PM Dec 1st, 2009

Kinders Al Kinley felt a bit teary leaving work. Can’t believe it’s here at last. We’re going to Copenhagen to save the world…
01 December 2009 at 19:46

Angelique Orr likes this.

Nikki Brown
Keep us all updated on facebook when you can, yes? I want to talk to you about your job at some point. I would very much like to do an internship with a charity at some point. As soon as I was old enough for charities to take me I’ve been doing voluntary work for various ones (next one is probably Oxfam!) and doing an internship seems like it might be a good idea when I’m well enough.
01 December 2009 at 19:56

Kinders Al Kinley
Maybe we can talk about it at Srafcon in Jan. Still not sure if I’m coming. But yeah, come and work for Oxfam! http://www.oxfam.org.uk/get_involved/volunteer/latest_intern.html
01 December 2009 at 20:00

Nikki Brown
Come to Srafcon! We’re lovely hosts. I’ll have a look at that link, thanks. :)
01 December 2009 at 20:06

Betsy Robson
Yay! Good luck! I love you! back to the USA soon?!
01 December 2009 at 22:47

Kinders Al Kinley
Man, I’d love to, but I promised no flights in 2010… anyway, it’s totally your turn to come to Oxford. I’ve got you a Christmas present that says so. xx
01 December 2009 at 22:53

Rory Patrick Aloicious McMannus
has the whole world gone fucking mad? www.nevertrustacop.org
02 December 2009 at 12:28

Kinders Al Kinley
Because of or despite the people planning to set Copenhagen on fire?
02 December 2009 at 12:56

Rory Patrick Aloicious McMannus
despite them and because of the people standing patiently and asking the Police officer for his badge number because they’re pretty sure he’s not allowed to do that while also waiting patiently and asking the men making billions (in profits and/or campaign contributions) if they’d mind very much just making millions for a while becauase some people in Bangladesh are getting flooded constantly. Sheesh!
02 December 2009 at 13:13

Kinders Al Kinley
Do you not think there’s any value in persuading people to do the right thing through engagement and discussion and education? Is destruction the only way to affect change?
02 December 2009 at 13:29

Rory Patrick Aloicious McMannus
The meeting is between governments, the only discussion is between nations wanting to safeguard their economic interests and get elected again in a few years. There is no engagement, you’re out on the street being herded along a pre-agreed route by riot cops. There’s no need for education, they all know what’s going on out there climate-wise they … See Morejust don’t give a shit, their prioroties are to continue genrationg profits for the multi-nationals that fund their parties and own their country’s newspapers. Come on Kin! No one changed anything without a little destrcution.
02 December 2009 at 13:47

Kinders Al Kinley
The represented governments include those from countries who have it in their best interests to prevent climate change. Part of the problem is indeed that developed countries are more interested in doing what’s profitable than what’s fair, but that’s why we’re out there campaigning, and I think we’ll do a better job of winning them over by engaging… See More them than by shutting down the discussions. We’re only out in the streets when we choose to be; we’re also there in the negotiations; engaged with the negotiators in person. I don’t think you’d be surprised by how poorly educated ministers are on any given topic including this one. The effect is pretty startling when somebody finally tells them what they need to know. I agree that a little destruction is powerful but it needs to be part of a broader set of actions. Surely pure destruction is purely destructive - ?
02 December 2009 at 19:28

Sibylle Shacklebolt Have a safe trip, Kinders! I hope you’ll be warm enough. I’ll look for you on the news :)
01 December 2009 at 20:12

Kinders Al Kinley has occasional evenings of uncontrollable win.
03 December 2009 at 22:30

Kinders Al Kinley RT @karinab - @kindersk was the gineau pig for a dry run of our Monday event. Try and guess what it is.
8:52 PM Dec 4th, 2009

Kinders Al Kinley Full day #1 in Copenhagen. It’s not even the weekend before the conference yet and I’m exhausted.
04 December 2009 at 23:05

James Maroney
good news on Obama though; keep up the good work Al!
05 December 2009 at 01:07

Kinders Al Kinley #CoP15 conference center is obscenely large. It’s all about to begin. Exciting!
06 December 2009 at 10:43

Kinders Al Kinley just had the most intense period of activity of his life
06 December 2009 at 19:19

Zoe Richmond and Gabriella Hood like this.

Kinders shared The Guardian’s Editorial on Google Reader

Kinders and Emily Subden are now friends.

Kinders favorited The world speaks out against climate change on YouTube

10 December 2009 at 03:58

Kinders Al Kinley is not feeling so loved today
10 December 2009 at 17:22

Alex McCarthy ✯
Aww. *hug* for Kinders!
10 December 2009 at 18:02

Zoe Richmond
There’s no ‘like’ button next to your name. But if there was I’d press it.
10 December 2009 at 22:16

Gabriella Hood
you are loved.
11 December 2009 at 00:21

Kinders Al Kinley
Thanks dudes, you rule. I feel loved again today. Part of me doesn’t want to leave here. Part of me can’t wait.
11 December 2009 at 22:58

Kinders Al Kinley feels loved today; have had a splendid day.
11 December 2009 at 22:51

Angelique Orr, James Maroney and Natalie Brook like this.

Kinders Al Kinley Week1 of CoP15 can best be described by the word “extremes”: most here have been shouted and sworn at, applauded, praised; felt elated, demotivated, frustrated, moved, excited, helpless; cried, fought, laughed and hugged. Despite some hellish days, I feel inspired and privileged to be here at this intensely significant… event. Excited for march/party tomorrow, and week2 to close a fascinating and amazing year.
11 December 2009 at 22:54

Kinders Al Kinley Finds that awful days are always overpowered by the awesomeness of the things I have the privilege of being involved in #CoP15
11:04 PM Dec 11th, 2009

Kinders Al Kinley owes apologies to lots of people for being a miserly grumpyguts today. #CoP15
13 December 2009 at 22:11

Guppi Bola
Chin up Al, coffee tomorrow? xx
13 December 2009 at 22:22

Kinders Al Kinley
Crikey, when?! Be nice if we get a chance :)
14 December 2009 at 06:27

Adam Tomkinson
Apology accepted.
14 December 2009 at 14:18

Sibylle Shacklebolt I’ve just seen people got arrested for protesting (what on earth). Are you okay?
13 December 2009 at 23:03

Kinders Al Kinley
Yeps. Only about 0.07% of demonstrators got arrested. The other 100,000 had an amazing time!
14 December 2009 at 06:26

Kinders Al Kinley is saying a fond goodbye to the #BellaCenter. I’ve gone from being UN invited today to uninvited tomorrow. #CoP15
14 December 2009 at 16:53

Kinders Al Kinley Just watched probably my last ever Fossil of the Day at #CoP15
14 December 2009 at 17:36

Kinders Al Kinley Proud to have been a Bali bear today
Save the humans
14 December 2009 at 21:58

Leisa Ashton MacLellan
I wondered if that was you- saw it on BBC- you are famous!!!!
15 December 2009 at 20:20

Kinders Al Kinley can’t believe it’s nearly all over.
16 December 2009 at 11:51

Kinders Al Kinley In our hotel, not allowed into #CoP15, it’s snowing and Dire Straits are playing. 2009 is nearly over. Feeling decidedly melancholy.
16 December 2009 at 13:51

Kinders Al Kinley signed the biggest petition in history. Join me. http://bit.ly/54XhuI #CoP15
17 December 2009 at 09:15

Kinders Al Kinley has the official pop mob sore throat
18 December 2009 at 09:01

Kinders Al Kinley Reading Obama’s speech before he speaks it. Bizzare. #CoP15
18 December 2009 at 11:43

Clare Fisher
loving your updates Al, have you got a blackberry or you permanently on the comp?!! oxfam xmas party last night we missed all you guys …
18 December 2009 at 14:49

Kinders Al Kinley
My routine is kind of, run somewhere, check emails, run somewhere else, check emails, run somewhere else… How was the party? Bummer to have missed it (third year running) but things are pretty exciting here too!
18 December 2009 at 22:29

Kinders Al Kinley featured on Have I Got News For You today… #CoP15
18 December 2009 at 21:25

Thom Wyatt
Which part? Were you a bear?
19 December 2009 at 04:34

Kinders Al Kinley
Yep :)
19 December 2009 at 09:43

Thom Wyatt
I’d wondered. You back in the uk now?
19 December 2009 at 18:23

Kinders Al Kinley
Nope. Some point this week, TBC
20 December 2009 at 10:39

Kinders Al Kinley My first Oxfam blog post :)
Being Nicolas Sarkozy | Oxfam International Blogs
Very few people have the opportunity to be the President of the French Republic in their lifetime, but today I was lucky enough to take up the mantle, at least for half an hour and be Nicolas Sarkozy.
18 December 2009 at 21:48


Kinders Al Kinley It’s all over. #CoP15
19 December 2009 at 09:49

Kinders Al Kinley Relief that exhausting #CoP15 is over now overtaken by bitter sadness that the deal is a massive #fail
19 December 2009 at 10:09

Kinders Al Kinley is coming home from #CoP15 early. I may have never been so happy
19 December 2009 at 16:19

Kinders Al Kinley necessarily got a lot off his chest last night. Time for 2010, I think.
20 December 2009 at 10:48

Kinders likes Juliana Russar’s photo.

Kinders and Becky Huinker are now friends.

Kinders Al Kinley met Kumi Naidoo at the airport #CoP15
20 December 2009 at 17:11

Kinders and Rully Prayoga are now friends.
Kinders and Christian Gade Bjerrum are now friends.
Kinders and Brian Cugelman are now friends.
Kinders and Bert Maerten are now friends.

Kinders Al Kinley CoP15 as told by Dr Zeuss…
Copenhagen
21 December 2009 at 10:37

Kinders Al Kinley Back home and already bored silly. Anyone fancy an all-delegation meeting?
21 December 2009 at 14:03

Kinders Al Kinley
Video: When George Monbiot met Boris Johnson … | Environment | guardian.co.uk
Environmental columnist George Monbiot challenges Boris Johnson’s green policies in an extraordinary meeting of world mayors in Copenhagen
21 December 2009 at 18:05

Kinders and Jason Wojciechowski are now friends.
Kinders and Anna A K Hinrichsen are now friends.

Kinders shared 3 items (1, 2, 3) on Google Reader

Kinders and Gabriel Leon Wulff are now friends.

Kinders Al Kinley hasn’t been this excited about Christmas since his age was a single-figure.
23 December 2009 at 10:23

Nidhi Shrivastava likes this.

Kinders Al Kinley spent the night having nightmares that people from work were calling incessantly to ask about their hotel in Mexico… :|
25 December 2009 at 13:12

Bert Maerten likes this.

Frida Eklund
Mwrahahahaha!!!
25 December 2009 at 20:23

Kinders shared Letters: Copenhagen: time to stop the finger-pointing on Google Reader

Kinders Al Kinley
A Message to World Leaders from Global Youth
Following the failure and collapse of the 2009 Copenhagen UN climate summit, the international youth climate movement has the following message for world leaders: “You’re not done yet. And neither are we.”

26 December 2009 at 10:46

Kinders Al Kinley La rana. La mariposa. La vaca. Lo siento.
27 December 2009 at 09:27

Frida Eklund
Mexico will be a breeze mate.
27 December 2009 at 11:44

Kinders Al Kinley
Mexico will be a long way from wherever I am in December!
27 December 2009 at 14:57

Kinders Al Kinley has had a lovely relaxing Christmas but is ready to go home tomorrow
28 December 2009 at 19:36

Kinders Al Kinley kind of misses Copenhagen…
30 December 2009 at 18:59

Frida Eklund
me too!!
31 December 2009 at 15:35

Kinders Al Kinley
What’s wrong with us?
31 December 2009 at 16:10

Posted in Climate change, Oxfam, Personal, Politics, Travel1 comment

2009/2010 Thursday, December 31st, 2009

2009 has been a strange and brilliant year for me. It started with an ending, when Katie broke up our four-year relationship. It was devastating, yet entirely the right thing to do, and, as it turned out, 2009 was the best year of my life (so far). I’ve visited the US, Holland, Scotland, Spain and Denmark; I’ve walked from Petersfield to Brighton. And in between each of these I’ve been in this beautiful city of mine, Oxford. I’ve befriended people from six of seven continents. I’ve discovered a hundred things about myself - my sexuality, my dreams, my fears. I’ve had my mind read and my pulse stopped and drunk the best cup of tea I’ve ever had (all in the space of an hour). I’ve chased thieves down the alleyways of Barcelona and danced at Parliament Square. People keep telling me I’ve been on BBC News as well as Have I Got News For You.

I had two resolutions in 2009 - the first of my life. One was to go permanently vegetarian. This I succeeded in. The other was to write Katie a letter every week. It would have been strange to have succeeded at that one.

I have lots of resolutions for 2010. My friends tell me they’re all cliches, but they’re sincere. Most of them are just things I’ve been meaning to do and the opportunity to do them seems to have arisen at the end of this year, but I am resolved to do them nonetheless:

Go vegan
I’ve been steering myself towards veganism since July and, despite a massive lapse in December (due to trips to Copenhagen and my parents’ - shh don’t judge me), I hit veganism at the beginning of November. In 2010, though, it’s going to become permanent, and I’m going to throw myself into learning to cook well.

Read
Ever since I got hold of The Wire I’ve stopped reading in bed, which means that - apart from policy papers and invoices - I’ve stopped reading altogether; and I miss it. I made a point of finishing The Wire before Copenhagen so that, when I returned, I could get back to the habit of burying myself in a book before snuggling down for the night.

Get creative
I used to take photographs and record music and write stories and I don’t any more. So let’s have some more of that again.

Learn Spanish
You know, it’s the second most spoken language in the world. And it’ll set me up nicely for COP16 in Mexico (estoy bromeando).

Run a/two marathon/s
Not really a resolution as I committed to it months ago, but running both the Paris and Berlin marathons is my Big Challenge for 2010.

Find someone to cuddle
2009 was the first year of my adult life that i was single and it was immensely good for me in ways I wouldn’t have predicted. But now I’m ready to find someone to cuddle again.

No flying
I took 10 flights in 2009 - 9 of them after beginning my job in the Climate Change Campaign team… So this year I’m taking none.

Keep campaigning
I’ve made so many friends and found so much meaning in campaigning this year, and I can only see that passion and energy growing in 2010. I’d like to start physically campaigning on more than just climate change.

It’s going to be an exciting year…

Here’s a meme about 2009, for those who are interested.

Posted in Art and photographs, Books, Climate change, Oxfam, Oxford, Paris Marathon 2010, Personal, Politics, Trailwalker 2009, Travel, USANo comments

Diary of a tourist in the USA Wednesday, October 7th, 2009

I wake up on my first full day in New York physically, mentally and emotionally exhausted.

On Friday night I took the snap decision to bus to London to celebrate Frida’s birthday. The upshot of this was two and a half hour’s sleep and a hefty taxi bill - both of which were fine since I would have regretted the alternative (staying in) even more. On the plane I watched The Notebook, which is probably the weepiest film I’ve ever seen, on Nat’s recommendation. Then when we arrived, a gaggle of my American buddies unexpectedly came to meet me in the city. I had forgotten just how much I love and miss these people. I think I dragged Thom and Ian around a bit in order to stay with my American friends, but they’re some of my favourite people in the world. When we said goodbye at the end of the evening I was filled with heartbreak and guilt - what was I doing in the States without having planned to see these guys for more than a few hours?

*

Sunday starts off badly. We go for breakfast at Tiffany’s; having not seen the film I’m not sure what the significance of this is, or if breakfast is even served there, but it sounds like one of the Things To Do while in NYC. Tiffany’s is closed, and we visit the Trump Tower, where Ian - a friend of Thom’s from Amsterdam - buys a golf towel for $20.69. It dawns on me that I am not in similar company. This is further compounded when our choice of restaurant for breakfast - pancakes with strawberries and a glass of orange juice - costs $25.

We amble about NYC for a while and finally hop on the boat to Islands Liberty and Ellis. This suits me. We are being Good Tourists. In the immigration museum, I wonder what happened between 1954 and now to make the US so viciously opposed to “aliens” moving in.

Back on land, Thom and Ian want to visit Macy’s, “the largest store in the world”. This does not appeal to me and I find that with every floor I rise up my communistic anger does the same. I take the escalator straight to the top and straight back down again, then sit outside in the Sun in the cycle lane for 40 minutes. One bicycle passes me. Later, I find out Ian spent $300 on a pair of sunglasses. I think I am going to hate him.

*

Monday: we arrive in Vegas. Over the last few days I have come to realise - although surely I have always known this - that this holiday is totally unsuited to me. I have no interest in having lots of money, or shopping, or exorbitant over-indulgence. So I am surprised to find that, when we arrive in this bizarre, lego-brick town, I am entirely charmed by it. There is something beautiful in its gaudiness.

After paying an extra - and unanticipated - $300 deposit for our hotel room, I break my internet embargo to transfer some extra funds to the account that I brought a card for (I wisely left one card at home, thus limiting my potential losses). We set off across the casino floor and were seduced by a croupier at a blackjack table, where Ian placed a $50 bet and stuck on 9 when the dealer had 10. I was unsure whether to feel relief that I couldn’t possibly match this absurdity or panic that, in all likelihood, my own inexperience would result in similar humiliation. Then we set off to see Penn and Teller. They were entertaining, but performed only low-key tricks that had been done many times before - hardly worth the $90 ticket price.

I promise this blog post does get more positive.

Exhausted (now eight hours separated from our body clocks), we insisted on doing some gambling before bedtime. I played $1 in a slot machine, which involved inserting a bill and pressing a button. I realised instantly that this was going to hold no appeal for me. Afterwards, pacing the casino floor, I see person after person sitting solitary at these machines, idly and seemingly disinterestedly pushing buttons, time after time, to no avail. I can’t keep the image of a trained monkey out of my mind. What is the draw here?

Finally I settle at a table where the croupier teaches us Caribbean Stud Poker. It’s a dull but easy game, and at $5 a bet, stakes are low. I play for 20-odd minutes, my profits fluctuating, and come out $12 down on a $40 investment. But I am no longer a novice. I feel ready - for bed, for the next day, and for Vegas.

*

Tuesday. I have grown a beard, and it is infuriatingly itchy. Today I will buy razors - but this, amazingly, turns out to be the least exciting thing about my day. In fact, I don’t even know why I’m mentioning it.

The day begins with a visit to Stratosphere, where we are hung and propelled 900 feet above the strip in the name of adrenaline-based entertainment. Then we head to the Luxor - my favourite of the casinos so far - to see the famous Bodies exhibition. It’s fascinating and brilliant. One room houses embryos at various stages of development, from a barely-visible speck to a recognisable creature the size of a Ty toy. Some of them have had their bones injected with dye so you can see how they develop over the months.

In the evening I realised a ten-year ambition of mine, when we saw Cirque de Soleil perform live. They have had a theatre built especially for their show “Ka” at the MGM Grand. There are iron towers surrounding the auditorium, from which they climb, swing and leap. The stage is not a stage but a pit, its bottom invisible to the audience, and from it three platforms rise and rotate, and on them the circus perform their feats. And what feats! The movements these people make just sing. They are at once beautiful, astonishing, impossible and inspired. I can, without hyperbole, state that Ka is the most amazing and impressive thing I have ever seen. I left with tears in my eyes and no words to describe why. All I can do is encourage you emphatically to see the show if you have the chance.

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Wednesday. I agreed to go with Thom and Ian to a shooting range, where they spent over $100 on a package allowing them to shoot paper targets of Muslims with weaponry matching that used in Iraq. One of the assistants actually said “Durka durka!” - the phrase used with such irony in Team America, lost on this one - as one of the shredded sheets returned. For the sake of getting involved I shot Dirty Harry’s 44 magnum at a zombie.

In the evening Thom and Ian elected to see a striptease. I’m neither prudish nor cheap, but the prospect of spending $60 on a striptease when there were six different Cirque de Soleil shows in town hardly appealed, so I saw Mystère by myself. Not as epic as Ka but still astonishingly impressive. As I left, the Bellagio’s midnight water show was beginning, so I stopped to watch. Thom and Ian visited some bars and got kicked out of a club. I feel I got the better deal.

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Thursday was spent driving to Arizona in a Ford Mustang. We escaped the electric excess of Vegas and found ourselves thousands of feet up in the mountains, rolling through honest American villages where the only professions are teacher, preacher, barber and shopkeeper. This, I remembered, is the America I love. Out here everything is quiet, gentle, familiar. The real America, at least as I’ve seen it, is not the brash, violent, stupid America that its own media portrays it as, but these communities outside the city walls. Here people know each other, and if they don’t, they’ll befriend you. People in real America just seem to love life and people. Maybe I’m blinkered, but I feel like I’ve sen more of this country than many who don’t live here, and I think I’ve seen a side of it that is undeservedly unpublicised, unheralded - unseen. It is this quiet, friendly, happy America that I fell in love with and I would still love to live here one day.

We’re staying at the Red Feather Lodge - little different to your best Westerns or Holiday Inns, except that it is family-owned. There seems to be a current running through the building - touching anything results in a static shock. We take to touching everything metal as we walk down the corridors, to discharge and avoid sparks when we reach our rooms.

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Breakfast on Friday was a croissant, a bowl of fresh fruit, a glass of fresh orange juice and a cup of tea. Man, I have missed eating healthily. One of the things I would (will?) find interminably difficult to adjust to if living in the States is the quality of the food. As a visitor, a healthy diet - let alone a vegetarian or vegan one - is a logistical challenge all by itself. But I suspect living, rather than visiting, here would make that far easier.

We spent this morning walking along the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It’s everything it’s talked up to be - vast, beautiful, breathtaking. And it’s the most peaceful place I’ve ever been. If there are no birds circling or distant airplanes, the park is silent. Silent. There is no sound but your own footsteps. I suspect the hardest materialist could become the most prolific artists here. I think my 2011 epic challenge might be to hike across the Canyon.

This afternoon we were due to take a helicopter over the Canyon itself, but the price tag was far higher than I expected. Not only am I not able to spend $225 on a 45-minutes helicopter, ride, I’d also be unwilling to do so if I could afford it. It’s one luxurious expense too far and I can’t handle such a level of self-spoiling. Thom and Ian, whom I assume are on much higher salaries, or are much better at managing their savings, carried on without me. But Ian was incredulous that I would walk the 10-minute route back to the hotel rather than wait for a ride or take a taxi, so I suspect he has difficulty with perspective.

Here I am sitting in the shade in a tiny town by the Grand Canyon. This is my kind of holiday. Despite its glamour, glory, strange beauty and inspired extravagance, I don’t think I’ll be visiting Vegas again soon. I remembered today that when my Grandma died, the children’s orphanage in India that she supported so well and for so long dedicated a newly built tower to her. I want to find out where it is, and make my next holiday a trip to see the Kinley Bell, and meet the people she wrote to and helped.

Once Thom and Ian return, we plan to watch the Sun set over the Canyon, then take a full moonlit walk (at 7.30pm!) with one of the rangers. Tomorrow we’ll return to watch the Sun rise again, before we set off to the airport and return home. I’m glad our trip ended here, in this peaceful place, and I’m glad to be heading home. I really think that part of the joy of a good holiday is knowing that you have something just as wonderful to return to - and I do.

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